Twenty-one Days in S.E. Asia (Cambodia)

Welcome to Cambodia

After Vietnam we moved on to our second country, Cambodia.  We flew into Siem Reap. This was an adventure at immigration and customs as there was a shortage of workers and an abundance of tourists.  It took over an hour to get through immigration to purchase our visas and then through customs was another thirty minutes.

We studied up on Cambodia as we knew little about the country other than during the Vietnam war incursions were made into the country.  Though few Cambodians are famous within the United States, one in particular is infamous: Pol Pot, leader of the Khmer Rouge and instigator of the notorious Killing Fields of Choeung Ed in Phnom Penh.

In ancient times Cambodia was the seat of the Khmer Empire which also ruled Vietnam, Laos and Thailand.  Like Vietnam, the French virtually took over Cambodia in the late 19th century and ruled by proxy until 1941 when they placed Prince Sihanouk on the throne. Tumultuous times took place after 1941 until the 1980s when the United Nations administered elections, reinstated the nation's king in 1993.  Though the country has significant problems, including substantial poverty and an overwhelmingly corrupt political system, many hope the nation will overcome its recent past and turn its attention to a democratic future.

The scooter went by rather rapidly, but how many people can you see riding.  At the bottom of the blog, I will post the number

Our first day began with a visit to the 12th century temple of Ta Prohm, a mystical decaying Buddhist shrine.  One of the area's most visited temples, Ta Prohm's ruins have not been touched.  They stand exactly as they were when first discovered with massive tree roots strangling parts of the stone facades.

Temple of Ta Prohm

Tree Root growing over and around the temple.

Notice the exquisite carvings. 

Musicians at work entertaining the  tourists.  Notice the artificial limbs.  This was common in Cambodia. 

Bayon Temple with four serene faces. 

The tree roots have weaved their way through the intricate carvings and hold the temple upright.  Removing the trees would allow the temples to collapse.

Then we went for a very interesting ride.  All over S.E.Asia rather than a taxi, you ride a Tuk Tuk.  This is a motor scooter pulling a single seat wagon for two people.  We have ridden in taxi cabs all over the world, and this is the most exciting ride we have ever had.  You want to kiss the ground when you arrive at your destination. 

Tuk Tuk to the temple.  

After lunch we prowled the city streets checked out the businesses and had a foot massage.  This was an outstanding experience.  I had forgotten one of my nightly medications but this was no problem.  We merely went to a Pharmacy and a very nice lady who spoke English, took care of me.  I told her want I needed and she sold it to me without a prescription.  What a wonderful country.  

Later in the afternoon we went to Angkor Wat.  This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the three great Buddhist sites of the eastern world.  Angkor Wat was rumored to be a lost city before its discovery by French explorer Henri Moughot in the mid-19th century.  It was a living city until 1431, when the Thais forced the Khmer court to move southeast.  Today the site contains magnificent temples and statuary from the Angkorian Empire which in its heyday rivaled those of Greece and Egypt. It took more than 500,000 artisans, workers, and slaves some 37 years to complete and comprises five towers each reaching more than 180 feet.

Serenaded by the sounds of the jungle, we entered Angkor Wat Temple, the world's largest religious building.  It was really fascinating as we saw the intricate detail of the bas reliefs and artwork depicting mythological battles and scenes of everyday life. 

As with all the temples, people were encouraged not to leave the group and wander off the trails due to the possibility of unexploded mines and ordinance.

Entering the temple grounds. 

Intricate carvings are everywhere

The king surrounded by his followers. 

The king in battle

Hard to see, but the king is riding an elephant. It was hard for us to make out standing up close. 

Entertainers in native dress.

Intricate carvings were everywhere telling a story.

Angkor Wat at sunset. 

We left Angkor Wat and headed back to the hotel.  Dinner was on our own.  Everyone was so tired we just ate at the hotel and folded our tents.  The tour was moving all the time and we needed some rest. 

After traveling through the countryside we arrived in the afternoon for a visit to the tiny Banteay Srei temple.  It was built for the Hindu god Shiva in the 10th century and had exceptional carvings in its red sandstone walls.  Banteay Srei's artistry on a miniature scale distinguishes it from other Angkorian temples, and has earned it the nickname "the jewel of Khmer art."  Its name literally translates as either citadel of women or citadel of beauty.  

The smallest of the temples, this was our favorite because of the intricate carvings and relief presented all through the structure.  

On the way back we stopped at a traditional Cambodian village and walked around freely.  Some of the ladies were selling some delicacies of sugar cane candy.  It was not only good, it was great and very sweet.  We will take this over chocolate any day.  

Preparing and selling the sugar cane candy, outstanding. 

Typical Cambodian rural village.

Small temple dedicated to Buddha.  Cambodians are very courteous and civil people.

Fishing Net. 

The next morning late, we visited Les Artisans D Angkor, a development project where young adults are taught the traditional crafting methods of the region, including stone carving, woodworking, and lacquer application.  We also visited the home studio of Cambodian artist Lim Muy Theam set among lush tropical gardens containing a private collection of art and sculptures.  

She would look good in my back yard.  

Beautiful carving with lacquer finish

 The gold leaf  make these great looking works of art. 

We transferred to the airport and arrived late into Luang Prabang Laos.  

Good hunting, good fishing, and good luck Hank

Check out my website and buy my book "How to Hunt Like a Gentleman."

www.outdoorswithhank.com

There were 5 souls on the motor scooter in the second photo. 

Twenty-one Days in S.E. Asia (Vietnam)

A friend asked me one time, "How do you get to do all that big game hunting with no complaints?"  The answer is simple.  My wife enjoys traveling and likes to go to far away exotic places. I like to go too.  Time is taking its toll on us and we want to get in as many trips as possible before it is too late.  A travel company we have used several times had a guided trip to S.E. Asia that lasted 21 days and visited four countries.  Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Thailand were on the agenda.  We signed up and left January 30th just before all the severe cold hit our area.  Vietnam was the first stop.

The lobby at the Melia Hanoi in Hanoi Vietnam.

We arrived late afternoon in Hanoi after 30+ hours of travel including layovers.  Exhausted, we grabbed a quick bite at our hotel and went to bed.  The next morning we embarked on an orientation tour of this French-accented city with broad tree-lined streets and colonial architecture.  The streets were not clogged with automobiles.  Everyone rides a motor scooter and there are thousands upon thousands.  It is the way the common man and woman gets around the country.  Automobiles are for the rich and these are the people that make up the government. 

We visited first the resting place of Ho Chi Minh and entered into a secured area.  Pictures were not allowed at the front of the tomb or inside.  The body was encased in glass and preserved like that of Lenin in Moscow.  Guarded by four guards we walked through and then outside into gardens in the area.  

Looking down the road leading up to the tomb.

Security was tight to enter the tomb area.

The exit side of the tomb and we were allowed to take pictures at this location.  The surrounding areas were an immense garden carefully and beautifully groomed. 

Ho Chi Minh's home, automobiles, and other structures were nestled among the beautiful gardens.  The tour continued and we passed Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of the city, where legend has it that a deity rose from the lake in the 1400s and reclaimed the magic sword of Emperor LeThaiTo, which he had used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. A memorial is erected on the shore of the lake to Senator John McCain for the work he did in helping open up trade with Vietnam.

Next stop was the Temple of Literature, founded in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius, which later became Vietnam's first university and today remains an active place of worship.

Entrance

Temple to Confucius

Pam and I in the temple. 

Lunch was on our own, and recommendations were made by our guide.  Pam and I found a pastry shop overlooking the street and square where a Catholic Church stood.  On the third floor we could look down on the populace and all the activity in the market.  There are very few cars in Hanoi.  The primary method of transportation is the motor scooter and they are thick on the streets with no traffic control of any kind.  People just manage themselves with no road rage at all.

Pam sitting at the restaurant thinking, "I wonder what kind of a hunting trip he has planned now."

Lunch in Hanoi and they took American dollars. 

Our next stop was the Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the "Hanoi Hilton."  The prison was established over 100 years ago by the French and was infamous for torture of the local population.  Throughout the Vietnam War, and for many years thereafter, the North Vietnamese Army controlled the prison and held American soldiers captive in order to torture and interrogate them.  Only 25% of the original prison is still standing. 

Wall outside the Hanoi Hilton

Inside the walls of the prison.  The top of the wall are pieces of glass. 

Picture of the prison before 75% of it was torn down. 

Typical cell. 

This wrapped up the first day in Hanoi, Vietnam.  Still suffering from the travel time, we flopped into bed as there was an early trip planned the next morning.

We departed early the next morning by coach to Ha Long Bay (Bay of the Descending Dragon). We made a stop first at a business that farms oysters and harvests the pearls. The oysters are processed and sold as food.  The pearls are then graded and set into jewelry.  The farm operates an outstanding jewelry store specializing in of course pearls. 

Oyster farm in the ocean along the coast. 

Harvested pearl which needs to be graded. 

I did not ask the prices, but the store was full of jewelry with pearls.  The ladies on the trip really enjoyed the store. 

  Ha Long Bay is Vietnam's legendary and beautiful waterway sprinkled with some 3000 islands and islets, and surrounded by a fairytale landscape of limestone cliffs, secret grottoes and hidden caves.

The islands

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Ha Long Bay was the home of ancient cultures dating back 25,000 years.  Our tour here included a ride on the placid waters aboard a traditional "junk" and a lunch on board of local seafood specialties.  After touring we checked into our hotel overlooking the bay and enjoyed another outstanding Vietnamese dinner.

Looking out our hotel 

The islands and harbor outside our hotel window. 

We flew this morning to Vietnam's third largest city, Da Nang, situated at the mouth of the Han River on the country's south central coast.  Upon arrival in Da Nang, we enjoyed a lunch at a local restaurant, then checked into our riverfront hotel in Hoi An.  Hoi An was originally the commercial capital of the Cham people before seeing a succession of Dutch, Chinese, Portuguese, and Japanese traders all contribute to the building of the colorful old town which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  These days the streets belong to pedestrians and bicyclists as no cars are allowed in the old town.

Covered Bridge in the old town. 

Monkey Shrine in old town.

Lady Buddha in Old Town

Dragon Sculpture in Old Town

Typical Vietnamese luncheon.  On the lower right hand corner is Pam's sunglasses she has been looking for since we got back.

We visited a local Vietnamese village nestled amidst endless rice paddies.  Here we gained a special insight into the every day life of a local farming community as we walked through the village past modest homes and gardens of vegetables and fruit.  

Local organic vegetable farm.  Homes in the background.

The people raise a lot of vegetables besides rice. 

We continued on our tour and headed to the airport for our 1.5 hour flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia.  On the way we stopped at the beaches of Da Nang.  This was a recreation spot for our soldiers during the war.  Our guide said that the veterans that visited could not believe how much it had changed since the beach was now lined with upscale hotels.  

Pam and I at the Dragon bridge on the beach at Da Nang. 

Pam on the beach at Da Nang.

This was the end of the day and it was time to head to the airport and fly to Cambodia.  Our Vietnam visit was over and everyone in the group was worn out.  Next was getting through the customs and immigration in Cambodia.  

Sleep Well Tonight

Hank