Birds of Patagonia

If you are interested in birding, this is the place to visit.  The region hosts 198 known species which can be classified into 44 families.  116 of these species build their nests and stay in the region throughout the year. and the balance are migrating species.  They are regular visitors during the summer and winter each year.  Both nesting and regular visitors are characteristic of the region.  Listed below are some of the birds and classified as either sea, land and shore birds.

Seabirds.

The Wandering Albatross is the world's largest bird.  When flying it's wingspan can go up to 13 feet.  It nests in the islands off South America.  These seabirds have long and narrow wings and a short tail.  The beak is long and robust, with independent nasal tubes located on either side of the upper jaw.  It's characteristically soaring flight allows them to cover great distances without flapping their wings.  They are permanently on the lookout for planktonic food, crustaceans and fish. A wandering albatross' distinguishing trait is its black tail.

The Wandering Albatross

The Kelp Gull is the most common seagull in the region.  It is easily distinguishable through the red spot it features under its beak.  The young usually poke this spot to cause their parents to regurgitate and then feed.  This species is easy to find along the coasts of the Beagle Channel, Straits of Magellan and inner channels in Tierra del Fuego.

Kelp Gull

The Petrels are sea birds and skilled fliers.  They feed off or near the water surface.  The Southern Giant Petrel is the biggest of the Petrels.  It looks like an Albatross but has a more robust body and a bigger beak with a noticeable nasal tube.  It is grayish brown, with a paler neck and head.  Specimens in Antarctica develop white phase, the whitening of the plumage, which has not been observed in the region.  The beak is yellowish with a greenish tip  It is easy to notice that adult Petrel's heads are fairer than the rest of the body.  These birds are constantly expelling salt through their nasal tubes.

Southern Giant Petrel

Shorebirds

The Magellanic Penguin is the most characteristic penguin in the Magellan region and Tierra del Fuego.  During the wintertime it migrates northwards in search of more temperate waters.  In September the first males return to the region to prepare the nest for females who arrive a week later.  Upon finding each other, breeding season ensues and three months later, towards the end of December, the chicks are born.  For the following three months, chicks learn how to survive while feeding on what their parents regurgitate.  Then, from March onwards, they migrate northwards together with the adults.  It has been discovered that adults accompany the juvenile during the initial sea-bound phase, and then come back to shed their plumage.

Magellanic Penguin

The Rock Shag or cormorant is an aquatic bird and an excellent diver.  They taxi on the surface of the water before taking off. After diving they are quite heavy, as their feathers are not 100% waterproof.  These birds stretch their necks while flying and they have a very horizontal flight.  This cormorant can be identified through its completely black neck and head.  They mostly feed on fish and nest in rock ledges.  They are particularly visible at the Tucker Islands.  They produce rich guano, which is usually used as fertilizer.

The Rock Shag

The Kelp Goose has a very clear sexual dimorphism.  The male is mostly white and the female is almost entirely black, with some white feathers on the wings.   When the female dies, the male will remain by her body for a long time.  When the male dies, on the other hand, the female female flies away immediately thereafter.  (Go figure) This is a very common resident species.  It only lives on the seashore or by inland seawater pockets.  It feeds on seaweeds.

Kelp Goose

The Fuegian Steamer Duck is mostly steel-gray, with a white belly, orange beak and yellow feet.  It is big, sturdy and incapable of flying.  It can usually be seen moving along the water at a considerable speed, paddling along like a steamer boat.  They are very good divers and feed on crustaceans and mollusks.

Land birds

The Upland Goose is a very common geese species in Patagonia.  We saw them everywhere we went, usually in pairs, but never in flocks.  Sexual dimorphism is strong.  The males features a white head and neck while the female is grayish brown.  The male upland goose uses white to attract attention of predators and the protects the female and juveniles.  (I wonder who protects him).

Upland Goose

The most famous and characteristic vulture in Patagonia is the Andean Condor.  We had the opportunity to view several not only in flight, but on the ground.  They are a magnificent bird.  Only the males feature the characteristic crest of the species.  Adults develop a white collar around their necks.  This is the world's  biggest land bird and at sea it is only second to the wandering and royal albatross.  The wingspan of an adult condor is about 10.5 feet.  The bird is a national symbol and is featured prominently in Chile's national emblem.

Andean Condor

Two Condor photoed out in the field.  There was a dead cow they were going to feed on.

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Good hunting, good fishing, and good luck.  Hank.

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Bending the Horn

After a really early morning breakfast, we arrived at Cape Horn.  The sailing ships that traveled these waters going from coast to coast sailing around the horn called it "bending the horn."  We would get to bend the horn today.  

The weather was not what we expected.  The ocean was calm and there was little wind, which was a surprise as we had learned that this was one of the rougher places on earth dreaded by sailors.  There was a high overcast and the day was pleasant.  We changed into our rain gear, grabbed our walking sticks, donned our rubber boots, all items needed to make the quick trip to land.  The crew of the Australis then gave us excellent instruction on how to climb down the ship's back ladder and how to grab hold of the arm of the person helping us into the zodiac boat.  In addition, they gave specific instructions right down to where to put your feet, sit down and slide along the sides of the zodiac boat.  This was a thrill, and one of many to come.

Zodiac Boat pulling up to the back of the ship.  Notice the calmness of the water.

There were crew members everywhere since this was our first experience.  Life jackets were checked and we rehearsed how to go down the back of the ship and into the Zodiac Boats. 

A loaded Zodiac Boat on its way to the cape

The ride could not have been more smooth.  Off in the distance we could see the Cape Horn Monument.  It was erected as an initiative of the Chilean chapter of the Chilean Association of Cape Horniers, in memory of the seamen from every nation who perished in the battle against inclemency of nature in the southern seas around the legendary Cape Horn.

It is estimated that between the 16th and the 20th centuries more than 900 ships were lost in the stormy waters of Cape horn, burying no fewer that 10,000 men of all walks of life and nationalities at sea.

The structure stands seven meters high and is constructed to withstand 125 mph winds.

This symbol was inspired by an old tradition of the sailors of yesteryear.  These sailors would capture the immense birds, known as the albatross, to play with them simulating a kite.  To do this, they tied a piece of salted pork to a hook which was lowered down to the surface of the ocean on a light rigging line.  When the albatross took the bait, the hook would lodge in the curve of the bird's beak.  With the line tight, the bird could not escape and the sailors would play with it from the ship until it landed on the deck.  It was then released.  No sailor was willing to kill an albatross since superstition had it that these beautiful and wandering birds embodied the spirits of sailors lost at sea.

Once you get to the shore there is a nice surprise of 150 steps to climb to the cape. 

The climb to the top.  Note the calm water. 

Once on the cape, there is a board path over the ground and it allows good walking up to the Cape Horn Monument.  Living on the cape in a lighthouse is a family that is rotated each year.  They must have the ability to home school their children.  Their job is to make daily weather observations.  People that do this work are members of the military and it is a volunteered position for the year.

Home and offices for the family that lives at the cape. 

The tip of the cape.  To the right is the pacific to the left is the Atlantic.  Notice the calmness of the water.

Flag of Chile on the cape.

Please notice the dark clouds.  If you look beyond the flag pole you can see rain showers.  We started back down to the zodiac boats and the short trip back to the boat.  The wind started to pick up and the ocean began to rock and roll. 

Pam waiting for me on a landing.  She is ready to head back to the boat. 

"I am the albatross that awaits you

at the end of the earth.

I am the forgotten soul

of the dead sailors

who sailed around Cape Horn

from all the seas of the world

But they did not die

in furious waves, 

today they fly on my wings,

towards eternity,

in the last crevice

of the Antarctic winds"

 

Good hunting, good fishing, and good luck.  Hank

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