Two weeks away, and my friend Charlie and I are off to the Nez Perce National Forest in Idaho for an elk trip into the mountains. We have been working hard to become profecient at shooting with a high powered rifle and horseback riding. Riding a horse has been an adventure in itself. The hills north of Council Bluffs resemble small mountains and we have been riding up and down getting the feel of what it will be like on the trip. A friend once told me to live your dreams.
Hunting and harvesting the game is only part of the job. Next is the field dressing; a task I do not take lightly. Properly dressed game will be evident when it is cooked and served. I like to review websites from different states. This article is taken from the Nebraska Game and Parks (http://outdoornebraska.ne.gov/), and whether you are an old pro or a beginner, it helps to review some well written material.
General Information
Properly field-dressing game is the most important part of a successful hunting trip. Deer and antelope make fine table fare if the animal is well cared for. The flavor of the meat depends on how quickly and carefully the meat is field dressed. Far too many animals are wasted or provide poor-quality eating because some fail to follow simple, common-sense rules of good meat handling.
Field Dressing Equipment
A few simple tools are necessary to properly field dress an animal. Tools include a sharp knife and sharpening equipment, a small saw for splitting the sternum and pelvis, a light rope or nylon cord for dragging, disposable vinyl or latex gloves, a cloth for cleanup, and a plastic bag for the liver and heart.
After the Kill
It is important to field dress the animal immediately after the kill. Remove heavy hunting coats and roll up shirts sleeves so they won't be bloodied in the process. A pair of disposable vinyl or latex gloves will reduce the chance of passing infectious diseases and makes hand cleaning easier. Some hunters advocate bleeding the animal by sticking it with a knife just above the breastbone, but most hunters believe that is unnecessary and should be avoided, especially if the head and shoulders are to be mounted.
Legal Requirements
The signed and properly punched permit must remain with the deer carcass. Follow tagging instructions on the permit. The head must remained unskinned and attached to the carcass until it has been checked through an official check station and a seal has been affixed. The carcass, except for the head, may be skinned prior to checking the deer. To make transporting the carcass out of a difficult area more convenient, the hind one-half of the animal may be separated from the front half, but the head must remain on the front half and evidence of sex must remain on the hind half. Any deer, antelope or elk left in the custody of one other than the hunter must be tagged with the information found on a "Game and Fish Custody Tag." Custody tags are available at all Game and Parks Commission offices, big game check stations and from conservation officers. The metal check-station seal must remain on the carcass or with boned meat while being transported to the processor or the hunter's dwelling. (This requirement is for Nebraska. Your state may be different.)
Field Dressing
Removal of scent glands is not considered necessary, but is done with care by many hunters. Careless removal of the glands can taint the meat if the knife is not thoroughly cleaned afterward. Place the carcass on its back with the rump lower than the shoulders and spread the hind legs. Make a cut along the center-line of the belly from breastbone to the base of the tail. First cut the hide, then cut carefully through the belly muscle. Avoid cutting into the paunch and intestines by holding them away from the knife with your free hand while guiding the knife with the other. Unless the head is to be mounted, it is advisable to cut through the sternum and extend the cut up the neck to the chin to allow removal of as much of the windpipe as possible. The windpipe sours rapidly and is a leading cause of tainted meat. Cutting with the direction of the hair (from throat to tail) will greatly reduce the amount of hair spreading to the meat. With a small, sharp knife, cut around the anus and draw it into the body cavity so it comes free with the complete intestines. Or, simply break the pelvic bone and pull the innards downward past the spread legs, then go back and cut around the anus last to free it from the hide. A small saw makes cutting the sternum and pelvic bone much easier. Avoid cutting or breaking the bladder. Loosen and roll out the stomach and intestines. Save the liver. Splitting the pelvic bone helps hasten cooling. Next, cut around the edge of the diaphragm, which separates the chest and stomach cavities, and split the breastbone. Then, reach forward to cut the windpipe and esophagus ahead of the lungs, which allows removal of the heart from the chest cavity. Save the heart. Drain excess blood from the body cavity by turning the body belly-down or hanging the animal head-up. A clean cloth can be used to clean hands, If you puncture the entrails with a bullet or your knife, wipe the body cavity clean or rinse it with water and wipe with a cloth. Part of the satisfaction of the hunt comes with making a clean kill and properly field dressing the animal. Veteran hunters may have their own variation in field dressing an animal, but the important points are to remove the internal organs immediately after the kill without contaminating the body cavity with dirt, hair or contents of the digestive tract and to drain all excess blood from the body cavity. Trim all parts damaged by a gunshot. If the weather is warm or the animal is to be left in the field for a day or more, it may be skinned (except for the head) and washed clean of dirt and hair. It should be placed in a shroud sack or wrapped with a porous cloth to cool (cheesecloth is ideal). Make sure the cloth is porous enough to allow air circulation but firmly woven enough to protect the carcass from insects and dirt. Adequate cooling may take six hours or more, depending on weather conditions.
The Trip Home
After the animal is checked and sealed, the head may be removed and the animal quartered for easy handling. Hunters should avoid transporting dead animals on the hood or top of vehicles. It is better to transport the animal out of sight or out of the sun in the trunk, inside the vehicle or in a covered truck box or trailer. This will help keep the animal cooler and cleaner. Warm meat spoils quickly. For early-season deer shot when temperatures are above 50 degrees, use bags of ice to cool the carcass.
Commercial Processor or Do It Yourself
Many hunters utilize the convenience of a commercial processor. They prefer the convenience and the ability to make specialties such as sausage, jerky and deer sticks. Others prefer to process their deer at home. Some get together with friends and process several deer at once. Some hunters use both methods by skinning and boning their deer and taking some of the meat to a processor to make jerky or sausage. Whichever method you choose the same basic methods should be followed. Keep the carcass clean, dry and cool. Bone out the meat from the deer. Do not cut through the spinal column or brain with meat processing equipment. If your deer is being tested for CWD, store the meat until test results are available. If your deer is found to have CWD, dispose of the meat at a licensed landfill.
Home Processing
Equipment - A sharp boning knife or fish-fillet knife with a 6-8 inch flexible blade makes butchering much easier. Keep sharpening tools handy. A dull hunting knife makes butchering a miserable job. At a minimum you will also need a cutting board and plastic bags or freezer wrap. Disposable latex or vinyl gloves are useful for keeping your hands clean.
Cleaning - Knives should be cleaned frequently with hot soapy water. Work areas can be kept bacteria free by cleaning with a 50/50 solution of water and bleach followed by a clear-water rinse.
Cooling and Aging the Meat - The carcass should be hung by the head in a cool, dry, shady place for a minimum of 24 hours. In hot weather, use ice to cool the carcass and butcher as soon as possible. Some hunters believe that aging the carcass at the proper temperature yields better-flavored, more tender meat. Successful aging requires the carcass to be clean and kept at a temperature of 34-36 degrees. This requires a walk in cooler or a refrigerator. Most hunters skip the aging process and butcher the deer after it has cooled with excellent results.
Skinning - Hang the deer by the head or neck. Avoid cutting through the hide to the hair. Avoid cutting through the skin over the tarsal glands. Avoid contaminating meat, hands and knives with dirt and dried urine found on the lower legs of rutting bucks. Begin by cutting through the skin around the neck, close to the head. Cut outward with the knife so you do not cut through the hair. It is best to remove as much of the hide as possible by pulling. Use the knife only in tight spots. Some hunters use a weight, winch or vehicle to pull most of the hide from the carcass. Insert a ball or rock in a fold in the neck skin and attach to a rope (it is best not to use this technique if the deer has been shot in the neck). Lower legs should be cut off at the knee joints. Wash the carcass with cold water and allow it to dry. Remove any hair that remains.
Boning - Remove the hind quarters, inner tenderloins, loins, front quarters and neck meat from the carcass while it is hanging (neck should be last). Place them in an ice chest. Move inside to your cutting area. Remove excess fat, gristle, tendons and lymph glands from the meat. Separate meat into muscle groups. The best steaks come from the hindquarters, back straps and tenderloins. The rib meat - even the meat between the ribs can be used unless the deer has been allowed to hang and become excessively dry - or loins cooked on the grill are superb. The front quarters and neck are most often used for stew, ground meat and sausage. Some hunters prefer to add ground beef or pork to give it extra fat and moisture. You can have a butcher shop grind and mix your meat also. Fat begins to break down once the meat is frozen and will give the meat an "off" taste. It is usually best to remove most fat unless you cook the meat within a few months.
Wrapping and Storage - To avoid freezer burn, it is best to double wrap the meat in plastic or freezer paper, taking care to squeeze out all air pockets. Label the package with type of cut and year. If you harvest more than one deer, you might add a mark that allows you to identify the specific deer.
CWD Concerns
There is no evidence that chronic wasting disease can be transmitted to humans or to animals other than deer and elk. As a precaution though it is a good idea to avoid contact with any wild animal that appears sick. It is recommended that you not eat any sick deer, including those that have CWD. Prions, which cause CWD, are concentrated in the brain, spinal cord, eyes, spleen, tonsils and lymph nodes of infected animals. It is recommended that you avoid sawing or cutting through any of these areas while processing your deer. You should bone your deer and keep your deer meat separate from the meat of other deer.
This article is from the Nebraska Game and Parks website.
OFFICIAL STATE OF NEBRASKA WEB SITE http://outdoornebraska.ne.gov/hunting/guides/biggame/fieldcare.asp
Nebraska Game and Parks Commission 2200 N. 33rd St. Lincoln, NE 68503-0370 - Ph. (402) 471-0641
Good fishing, good hunting, and good luck. Hank
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Monday, September 20, 2010
Nothing better than fall fishing
I am missing fall fishing this year because of my goal to hunt Elk in Idaho. The preparation is taking some time getting ready. The first goal is to develop some proficency with a high powered rifle. The second is to learn to ride a horse. Both are needed for this trip.
However, there are other fishermen that are fishing in one of my favorite lakes in South Dakota, Wauby Lake, South Dakota. My good friend John and a couple of his friends went without me to haul in the walleye. Following my recommendation of fishing the weather, the three of them picked a great three days to make the 300 mile trip from Council Bluffs.
They arrived late in the evening, therefore their only information was by phone from the local bait shop. It was the same information that I had based my trips on. The recommendation was to fish the west end of the lake putting in at Kanago access. Then they were told to fish the Bresky Bay area and stay along the north shore, but not to go beyond Duck Island. They were also told to fish straight out from the lake access. I was never sure of the distance after leaving the landing. I always headed southeast and made a long sweeping half circle back before going east on the lake. Straight out is a sunken rock pile, and with the current water levels the first pile is not visible. Fishermen should approach with caution to avoid smacking the lower unit on their motors, but they will be rewarded with some nice fish. The second spot is just beyond the sunken rockpile. This pile of rock is more visible and there is some dead timber sticking up. A fisherman should approach with caution, and fish around the pile staying in about ten to fifteen feet of water. This is a bigger reef and probably runs thirty yards north and south. East and west it runs about ten to fifteen yards.
In the morning, John started at Bresky Bay and worked along the north shore as recommended. He started out in ten feet, got no hits, then moved out to twenty feet. He was rewarded with good solid hits and a nice keeper fish mixed in the group they caught. They were pulling red and white spinners tipped with a piece of crawler. They lowered the bait to the bottom then reeled it up about two to four feet to keep it out of the vegetation on the bottom of the lake. This worked well all morning and by noon they were halfway to the daily limit.
After a little break for lunch, they were back on the lake by 2 PM and repeated the process. The walleye were getting finicky and the hits were not so frequent. John also said he believed they were mouthing the bait and not smacking into it like a feeding fish. Light strikes were not a real good sign, but these were patient men. By 4 PM they were shut down and nothing was hitting. The decision was made to hit it really early in the morning.
They were back on the lake early the next morning. A light breeze out of the southwest gave the lake a nice ripple as they headed to Bresky Bay. They fished for two hours along the north bank and struck out. John then decided to head to the east end of the lake beyond school bus point and fish a bay just opposite the Grenville Access on the south shore. On the south end of this bay is a series of buoys that mark a restricted area operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife. The area is a waterfowl refuge, and you canot enter. About twenty five yards away from the refuge, the action really picked up. In fifteen feet of water they found the hungry walleye and had a daily limit by noon.
After breaking for lunch and cleaning the fish, the rest of the day was spent exploring the lake and looking for additional reefs, drop offs, and any other underwater structure that will hold fish. How much better could this get.
On the final morning they went to the Grenville Access to fish the bay next to the wildlife refuge. Success was with the fishermen. By noon they each had two more walleye, which was a posession limit. What a trip!
Having some good success this fall? Drop us a line. Good fishing, good hunting and good luck. Hank
P.S. October 2nd is the opening day for ducks in the Tekamah area. With all the water around it should be a good opener.
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However, there are other fishermen that are fishing in one of my favorite lakes in South Dakota, Wauby Lake, South Dakota. My good friend John and a couple of his friends went without me to haul in the walleye. Following my recommendation of fishing the weather, the three of them picked a great three days to make the 300 mile trip from Council Bluffs.
They arrived late in the evening, therefore their only information was by phone from the local bait shop. It was the same information that I had based my trips on. The recommendation was to fish the west end of the lake putting in at Kanago access. Then they were told to fish the Bresky Bay area and stay along the north shore, but not to go beyond Duck Island. They were also told to fish straight out from the lake access. I was never sure of the distance after leaving the landing. I always headed southeast and made a long sweeping half circle back before going east on the lake. Straight out is a sunken rock pile, and with the current water levels the first pile is not visible. Fishermen should approach with caution to avoid smacking the lower unit on their motors, but they will be rewarded with some nice fish. The second spot is just beyond the sunken rockpile. This pile of rock is more visible and there is some dead timber sticking up. A fisherman should approach with caution, and fish around the pile staying in about ten to fifteen feet of water. This is a bigger reef and probably runs thirty yards north and south. East and west it runs about ten to fifteen yards.
In the morning, John started at Bresky Bay and worked along the north shore as recommended. He started out in ten feet, got no hits, then moved out to twenty feet. He was rewarded with good solid hits and a nice keeper fish mixed in the group they caught. They were pulling red and white spinners tipped with a piece of crawler. They lowered the bait to the bottom then reeled it up about two to four feet to keep it out of the vegetation on the bottom of the lake. This worked well all morning and by noon they were halfway to the daily limit.
After a little break for lunch, they were back on the lake by 2 PM and repeated the process. The walleye were getting finicky and the hits were not so frequent. John also said he believed they were mouthing the bait and not smacking into it like a feeding fish. Light strikes were not a real good sign, but these were patient men. By 4 PM they were shut down and nothing was hitting. The decision was made to hit it really early in the morning.
They were back on the lake early the next morning. A light breeze out of the southwest gave the lake a nice ripple as they headed to Bresky Bay. They fished for two hours along the north bank and struck out. John then decided to head to the east end of the lake beyond school bus point and fish a bay just opposite the Grenville Access on the south shore. On the south end of this bay is a series of buoys that mark a restricted area operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife. The area is a waterfowl refuge, and you canot enter. About twenty five yards away from the refuge, the action really picked up. In fifteen feet of water they found the hungry walleye and had a daily limit by noon.
After breaking for lunch and cleaning the fish, the rest of the day was spent exploring the lake and looking for additional reefs, drop offs, and any other underwater structure that will hold fish. How much better could this get.
On the final morning they went to the Grenville Access to fish the bay next to the wildlife refuge. Success was with the fishermen. By noon they each had two more walleye, which was a posession limit. What a trip!
Having some good success this fall? Drop us a line. Good fishing, good hunting and good luck. Hank
P.S. October 2nd is the opening day for ducks in the Tekamah area. With all the water around it should be a good opener.
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Sunday, September 12, 2010
Elk Hunting and Learning to Ride A Horse
Packing in on horseback and hunting in the mountains has always been my goal and now the goal is going to be realized. But here it comes, I have to learn how to ride a horse. Now at first blush, I thought this was nothing. Mount up, kick him or her in the ribs, and gallop off into the sunset or sunrise, whatever the case may be. The questionaire sent by the folks at Windriver Outfitters had a serious question, " Do you have experience riding a horse and when was the last time you rode?" My experience is limited to when I rode a wooden horse on the merry-go-round at the age of four. The music was outstanding, but now I have to get serious. My friend Charlie and I will be in the Nez Perce National Forrest in Idaho riding horses on an elk hunt. That is no place to be careless or foolish. We both took it seriously and contacted a riding stable. They put us through some training on horses. After taking the training, I really feel confident that this will be an enjoyable part of the trip, and not a nightmare. Below is a copy of the manual they gave us along with some tips at the bottom. It is an interesting read.
Stand on the near, left side of the horse. Gather the reins in one hand, put your left foot in the stirrup, and hold onto the back, (holding onto the saddle when mounting will cause it to slide). Keep both your hands on the front of the horse. You can also hold the cantle of the saddle (back or seat) with your right hand when mounting). Push up and swing your right leg over the back of the horse, keeping your leg from kicking the horse's flank. When mounted, gather your reins and then hang both legs down near stirrups and make sure they are the right length by having the stirrup reach your ankle. You should also be able to simply slide your feet into the stirrup while lifting your feet a few inches. Start off with a slow walk. To ask for this pace, squeeze your legs, (lower calf) and the horse should move off. Only kick the horse if he does not respond to repeated squeezes. You don't want to teach him bad habits by ignoring you. The walk is a 4 beat gait, meaning you can feel when each hoof hits the ground. After a few minutes stop and check your girth. You should be able to fit 4 fingers between the girth and the horse. If you can fit more, then you must tighten the girth. While walking, make sure to keep your heels down, back straight and chin up. Your body should form a straight line that can be drawn from your heel, to the hips, to the shoulders. Most riders think you pull on the left rein to go left and the right rein to go right. This is true, but not very effective and may cause long term health problems having to do with the mouth of your horse. Learn how to steer with your legs. For example if you want to go left, use your opposite leg (right leg) and put pressure on the horse with the leg. While you are putting pressure with your right leg, "open the door" with your left hand. That means you loosen up the reins only in your left hand and pull outward like you are opening a door. Doing those two things plus steering with your reins gives you perfect control. When stopping, pull back on the reins and sit deep; you may have to lean back a bit and put your weight into your bottom and heels. When halted, release reins as the reward and pat your horse. Once you are comfortable at the walk, you can try a trot. Trotting is quite bumpy and you may get unnerved and unseated. Do not take anything too fast. It may take a week or two to start to trot. If you are riding English, try posting. Posting is when you rise to the beat of the trot. To post, simply rise and fall, but when you sit down, make sure you are following the horse's outside shoulder (the one closest to the rail). When that shoulder is going forward, you rise. When it is going back, you go down. If you sit the trot, move your hips with the horse, otherwise you will bounce and the horse's back won't feel too great. To get the horse to move forward, as in any other gait, you must squeeze slightly with your legs. The trot is two beats. You should be able to count "1,2,1,2" while your horse is trotting. When slowing from a trot to a walk, sit deep and pull back slightly on the reins. Continue trotting until you can post effectively and are comfortable at the trot. The next step is canter. To ask for canter, squeeze your outside leg while having it back a bit and squeeze with your inside leg. Before you canter, sit in trot and then ask, as this will have you sitting ready for the canter. At canter you should sit back slightly, and when you feel you are sitting back too much, you will be sitting back just enough. Or you can go into a half seat when you canter, which is a modified two-point. The two point is the jumping position. At a canter, you rock forward and backward, with your bottom just slightly off the saddle. Cantering is also known as a lope to most western horseman. Cantering is much faster than trotting and will take time to get used to. Once you can canter, again, stay vigilant with your posture and heels. The more advanced you become, the more details are required to ride properly. Make sure to keep practicing posting and walking while learning how to canter, because these are skills you need to advance. Leads are important to the canter. If you pick up the wrong lead, the horse will be uncomfortable. The inside shoulder should be leading (it will look as if it is staying ahead of the other shoulder). After picking up the canter, glance down to make sure you have the correct lead. If not, slow down to a trot and pick up the canter again. Once you are comfortable at the canter, you can move on to a gallop. Galloping is much like a canter, but faster. You should sit slightly forward in the saddle and keep your bottom elevated.
Always wear riding boots that have a a flat sole with a slight heel. (To prevent stirrup slipping too far, resulting in your foot through the stirrup).
Always wear long pants when riding.
Never sit or kneel near a horse.
Try to always mount from the left side or near side. Horses are usually trained most on this side, but a well trained horse should be handled on both sides equally.
Don't run up to a horse. You can come up behind it, but make sure the horse knows you're there. Be cautious, you can pat him on his rump and say "whoa" or "easy boy" so he knows you are there! Always move to his shoulder and always talk to him so he knows you're coming closer.
This may seem strange to beginners, but try not to feel nervous around a horse. A horse can pick up what you are feeling and when you are nervous, the horse will feel nervous too.
Never yank the bit. Think that the horse has egg shells in his mouth. He'll thank you by being relaxed and free moving.
Always have a professional coach or trainer or experienced horse rider with you if you are just learning to ride. You should always ride in the presence of someone else in case of a fall or any other emergency so there will be someone to help you.
Putting a bridle on is harder then it looks! Horses can move their heads up and about a million other directions!
Always make sure that the girth is tightened appropriately. Double check before mounting. If you need help, do not hesitate to ask. If you make it too tight, the horse will be grumpy. If you make it too loose, the saddle will slip.
Horses are sensitive animals. Always make sure you are relaxed and calm around them, so as not to make them feel nervous.
When you are trotting, keep track of where your feet are. If they are under you, that is fine.
Never scream on a horses back, even if the horse gets nervous and starts to trot. Don't panic because the more pressure you put on the horse, the more scared you will make him.
If this is your first time riding, never try bareback. A lot of girls and boys think that bareback should be their first ride so they can feel the horse underneath them first. Wrong. The saddle is always there for your comfort, protection, and safety. Try a bareback session after you ride with a saddle.
It pays to train for a good experience.
If you have an interesting story or pictures, e-mail them to me, and we will publish them.
Good hunting, good fishing and good luck. Hank
P.S. Nebraska announced their fall turkey season. It starts September 15th and goes to December 31st of this year. Limit is two birds either sex. I like Nebraska Turkey Season and the way they set it up.
Stand on the near, left side of the horse. Gather the reins in one hand, put your left foot in the stirrup, and hold onto the back, (holding onto the saddle when mounting will cause it to slide). Keep both your hands on the front of the horse. You can also hold the cantle of the saddle (back or seat) with your right hand when mounting). Push up and swing your right leg over the back of the horse, keeping your leg from kicking the horse's flank. When mounted, gather your reins and then hang both legs down near stirrups and make sure they are the right length by having the stirrup reach your ankle. You should also be able to simply slide your feet into the stirrup while lifting your feet a few inches. Start off with a slow walk. To ask for this pace, squeeze your legs, (lower calf) and the horse should move off. Only kick the horse if he does not respond to repeated squeezes. You don't want to teach him bad habits by ignoring you. The walk is a 4 beat gait, meaning you can feel when each hoof hits the ground. After a few minutes stop and check your girth. You should be able to fit 4 fingers between the girth and the horse. If you can fit more, then you must tighten the girth. While walking, make sure to keep your heels down, back straight and chin up. Your body should form a straight line that can be drawn from your heel, to the hips, to the shoulders. Most riders think you pull on the left rein to go left and the right rein to go right. This is true, but not very effective and may cause long term health problems having to do with the mouth of your horse. Learn how to steer with your legs. For example if you want to go left, use your opposite leg (right leg) and put pressure on the horse with the leg. While you are putting pressure with your right leg, "open the door" with your left hand. That means you loosen up the reins only in your left hand and pull outward like you are opening a door. Doing those two things plus steering with your reins gives you perfect control. When stopping, pull back on the reins and sit deep; you may have to lean back a bit and put your weight into your bottom and heels. When halted, release reins as the reward and pat your horse. Once you are comfortable at the walk, you can try a trot. Trotting is quite bumpy and you may get unnerved and unseated. Do not take anything too fast. It may take a week or two to start to trot. If you are riding English, try posting. Posting is when you rise to the beat of the trot. To post, simply rise and fall, but when you sit down, make sure you are following the horse's outside shoulder (the one closest to the rail). When that shoulder is going forward, you rise. When it is going back, you go down. If you sit the trot, move your hips with the horse, otherwise you will bounce and the horse's back won't feel too great. To get the horse to move forward, as in any other gait, you must squeeze slightly with your legs. The trot is two beats. You should be able to count "1,2,1,2" while your horse is trotting. When slowing from a trot to a walk, sit deep and pull back slightly on the reins. Continue trotting until you can post effectively and are comfortable at the trot. The next step is canter. To ask for canter, squeeze your outside leg while having it back a bit and squeeze with your inside leg. Before you canter, sit in trot and then ask, as this will have you sitting ready for the canter. At canter you should sit back slightly, and when you feel you are sitting back too much, you will be sitting back just enough. Or you can go into a half seat when you canter, which is a modified two-point. The two point is the jumping position. At a canter, you rock forward and backward, with your bottom just slightly off the saddle. Cantering is also known as a lope to most western horseman. Cantering is much faster than trotting and will take time to get used to. Once you can canter, again, stay vigilant with your posture and heels. The more advanced you become, the more details are required to ride properly. Make sure to keep practicing posting and walking while learning how to canter, because these are skills you need to advance. Leads are important to the canter. If you pick up the wrong lead, the horse will be uncomfortable. The inside shoulder should be leading (it will look as if it is staying ahead of the other shoulder). After picking up the canter, glance down to make sure you have the correct lead. If not, slow down to a trot and pick up the canter again. Once you are comfortable at the canter, you can move on to a gallop. Galloping is much like a canter, but faster. You should sit slightly forward in the saddle and keep your bottom elevated.
Always wear riding boots that have a a flat sole with a slight heel. (To prevent stirrup slipping too far, resulting in your foot through the stirrup).
Always wear long pants when riding.
Never sit or kneel near a horse.
Try to always mount from the left side or near side. Horses are usually trained most on this side, but a well trained horse should be handled on both sides equally.
Don't run up to a horse. You can come up behind it, but make sure the horse knows you're there. Be cautious, you can pat him on his rump and say "whoa" or "easy boy" so he knows you are there! Always move to his shoulder and always talk to him so he knows you're coming closer.
This may seem strange to beginners, but try not to feel nervous around a horse. A horse can pick up what you are feeling and when you are nervous, the horse will feel nervous too.
Never yank the bit. Think that the horse has egg shells in his mouth. He'll thank you by being relaxed and free moving.
Always have a professional coach or trainer or experienced horse rider with you if you are just learning to ride. You should always ride in the presence of someone else in case of a fall or any other emergency so there will be someone to help you.
Putting a bridle on is harder then it looks! Horses can move their heads up and about a million other directions!
Always make sure that the girth is tightened appropriately. Double check before mounting. If you need help, do not hesitate to ask. If you make it too tight, the horse will be grumpy. If you make it too loose, the saddle will slip.
Horses are sensitive animals. Always make sure you are relaxed and calm around them, so as not to make them feel nervous.
When you are trotting, keep track of where your feet are. If they are under you, that is fine.
Never scream on a horses back, even if the horse gets nervous and starts to trot. Don't panic because the more pressure you put on the horse, the more scared you will make him.
If this is your first time riding, never try bareback. A lot of girls and boys think that bareback should be their first ride so they can feel the horse underneath them first. Wrong. The saddle is always there for your comfort, protection, and safety. Try a bareback session after you ride with a saddle.
It pays to train for a good experience.
If you have an interesting story or pictures, e-mail them to me, and we will publish them.
Good hunting, good fishing and good luck. Hank
P.S. Nebraska announced their fall turkey season. It starts September 15th and goes to December 31st of this year. Limit is two birds either sex. I like Nebraska Turkey Season and the way they set it up.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Sighting in a Rifle
"The lazy do not roast any game, but the diligent feed on the riches of the hunt." Proverbs 12:27.
It is time to sight in the rifle and punch some holes in a target. I first called my friend Bruce. He is a big game hunter with lots of high powered rifle experience. This is how he told me to do it.
Cabelas has a rifle rest on sale for $69.88. It is a $119.99 item, and I went and bought one of these. It is much easier for me than getting a bunch of sand bags, a table, etc. and building a shooting platform that will be 100 % stationary. You want to shoot at 25 and 100 yards. It is a good idea to make yourself as comfortable as possible.
Set up first at 25 yards. Use a medium size target. I like to use one that is about eigthteen inches in diameter. That is pretty close to the kill zone on a deer. I also dial in the highest power on the scope that will give me a clear image. If the image is not clear, dial it down until it is clear. Put the cross-hairs on the bulls-eye. Now you want to close your eyes for about ten seconds. Upon opening, the target and cross-hairs should remain stationary. If not, you are under some tension and shift around a bit until you feel relaxed. You should be able to put the cross-hairs on the bullseye, close your eyes, then re-open them again and not have the target drift. Your muscles in and around the eyes are then relaxed.
Fire one shot and then examine where the bullet hole is on the target. Refer to the dirctions that came with the scope. My scope calls for one click to = 1/4 inch at 100 yards. This is common, but may be different for your scope. On my scope, if the shot is 2 inches high at 100 yards, I would down turn 8 clicks, but at 25 yards, I would turn it times 4 times 8 to equal 32 clicks. The same applies to the windage adjustment.
Now fire another shot. Examine where the bullet penetrated the target. If it hits inside the number ten ring on a small bore rifle target be satisfied. That is close enough, unless you want to expend more ammunition to make it perfect. If it did not hit inside the number ten ring, make small additional adjustments until it does hit in that area.
Now move out to the hundred yard target. Use the same type of target, and wait until your rifle barrel has cooled. This time fire a patter of three shots. They should be within 3 inches of each other, and inside the # 10 ring on the target. If not, make the appropriate adjustments for elevation and windage.
There is extra homework to do. If you want to get really into this, study the "Expanded Rifle Trajectory Table." This will provide additional information on where to land long distance shots. My friend Bruce told me just do the above and forget the extra study unless I plan to shoot some long distances. Where I am going and based on the pictures, the elk are all being shot in the timber so I do not anticipate any long range shooting.
My next part of trip preparation is horse back riding. A questionaire and a list of necessary equipment we should carry came shortly after I made the reservation. All of the equipment I had, but there was one item on the questionaire that jumped out at me. "Do you have experience with horseback riding? If not, have you ever ridden a horse and your experience with it?" The truth is, I rode a horse on a merry-go-round when I was a small boy. It must have made an impression because I still remember it. Needless to say I answered the question with a NO.
More to follow next week on the preparation phase.
Good fishing, good hunting, and good luck Hank.
P.S. I am missing the fall fishing. If anyone has an interesting story, send it to me, and we will publish it.
It is time to sight in the rifle and punch some holes in a target. I first called my friend Bruce. He is a big game hunter with lots of high powered rifle experience. This is how he told me to do it.
Cabelas has a rifle rest on sale for $69.88. It is a $119.99 item, and I went and bought one of these. It is much easier for me than getting a bunch of sand bags, a table, etc. and building a shooting platform that will be 100 % stationary. You want to shoot at 25 and 100 yards. It is a good idea to make yourself as comfortable as possible.
Set up first at 25 yards. Use a medium size target. I like to use one that is about eigthteen inches in diameter. That is pretty close to the kill zone on a deer. I also dial in the highest power on the scope that will give me a clear image. If the image is not clear, dial it down until it is clear. Put the cross-hairs on the bulls-eye. Now you want to close your eyes for about ten seconds. Upon opening, the target and cross-hairs should remain stationary. If not, you are under some tension and shift around a bit until you feel relaxed. You should be able to put the cross-hairs on the bullseye, close your eyes, then re-open them again and not have the target drift. Your muscles in and around the eyes are then relaxed.
Fire one shot and then examine where the bullet hole is on the target. Refer to the dirctions that came with the scope. My scope calls for one click to = 1/4 inch at 100 yards. This is common, but may be different for your scope. On my scope, if the shot is 2 inches high at 100 yards, I would down turn 8 clicks, but at 25 yards, I would turn it times 4 times 8 to equal 32 clicks. The same applies to the windage adjustment.
Now fire another shot. Examine where the bullet penetrated the target. If it hits inside the number ten ring on a small bore rifle target be satisfied. That is close enough, unless you want to expend more ammunition to make it perfect. If it did not hit inside the number ten ring, make small additional adjustments until it does hit in that area.
Now move out to the hundred yard target. Use the same type of target, and wait until your rifle barrel has cooled. This time fire a patter of three shots. They should be within 3 inches of each other, and inside the # 10 ring on the target. If not, make the appropriate adjustments for elevation and windage.
There is extra homework to do. If you want to get really into this, study the "Expanded Rifle Trajectory Table." This will provide additional information on where to land long distance shots. My friend Bruce told me just do the above and forget the extra study unless I plan to shoot some long distances. Where I am going and based on the pictures, the elk are all being shot in the timber so I do not anticipate any long range shooting.
My next part of trip preparation is horse back riding. A questionaire and a list of necessary equipment we should carry came shortly after I made the reservation. All of the equipment I had, but there was one item on the questionaire that jumped out at me. "Do you have experience with horseback riding? If not, have you ever ridden a horse and your experience with it?" The truth is, I rode a horse on a merry-go-round when I was a small boy. It must have made an impression because I still remember it. Needless to say I answered the question with a NO.
More to follow next week on the preparation phase.
Good fishing, good hunting, and good luck Hank.
P.S. I am missing the fall fishing. If anyone has an interesting story, send it to me, and we will publish it.
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